"They look a bit like morris dancers...": radio calisthenics in Matsuba Park

This isn't morris dancing, I know..! It's something else entirely—although one or two of the postures definitely bear a certain resemblance to morris and several of the men wore hats and white trousers! So, you know...same ballpark!

This is rajio taisō—or 'radio calisthenics'—a popular exercise programme broadcast throughout Japan each morning at 6.30am in a range of public spaces. Introduced in 1928 in commemoration of the coronation of Emperor Hirohito, the 15-minute routine is performed to highly recognisable recorded music and is designed to improve health and wellbeing, by getting the body moving and invigorated for the day ahead. 

 ['Squash beetles' / lunges anyone?]

[Not a morris hat]

As well as being a regular sight in parks and community grounds during the wee small hours, it is sometimes used in schools and workplaces to help build morale and instil a sense of group unity. For English people the idea might recall uninspiring 'music and movement' classes at primary school, but in Japan the routine remains much-loved by many people and some groups have been running daily for more than fifty years.

I first heard about rajio taisō through the 'Begin Japanology' series, hosted by Peter Barakan on NHK World (mentioned in a previous blog post: see https://morrisdancinginjapan.blogspot.jp/2018/02/i-met-peter-barakan.html). When I knew that I would be coming to Japan, I was determined that I would join one of the sessions myself—despite the very early start not being at all compatible with the sleeping preferences of a night owl like me! And so, this morning—at 5am no less and while it was still very dark—I set off from my hotel for Ueno and Matsuba Park, where I was reliably informed the closest and most reliable rajio taisō session would be held. (NB. there is relatively little up-to-date information about radio calisthenics online, so it was a bit hit-and-miss whether or not the exercises would be going ahead during the winter months. Lucky for me, they were!).

I arrived shortly after 6am—30 minutes early—before many of the participants arrived. But although the sun was not yet up, I was not the first 'calisthenicist' (not a word) in attendance! A small patio heater was already lit and several of the most committed regulars were warming themselves in front of its yellow glow. I was welcomed with a mixture of friendly curiosity and bemusement—it seems that not many tourists show up for this particular Japanese custom!—but once Tadashi, the exercise leader, broke out the coffee candies I felt I had been accepted into the group. 'Is it difficult to learn rajio taisō?' I asked. 'No, but you will have to think fast!'

I can't claim that I got all the exercises exactly right. It was tricky to do them and take photographs at the same time! But I definitely got a taste of what the whole thing was about. The exercises were fun, relatively easy to pick up and a good, gentle warm-up on a cold February morning! The regulars were, of course, experts. Although Tadashi demonstrated all of the movements from a small dais at the front of the crowd, most people began each part of the routine as soon as the distinctive music started to play over the tannoy.

It is fair to say that most of the members were somewhat on the older side. The group's oldest regular is 90 years old and attributes his longevity to a daily regimen of radio calisthenics and tai chi. Indeed, the most frequent question I encountered (other than 'where is your husband?' and 'would you not like a nice Japanese husband?') was 'how old are you?'. For the first time in ages, I felt positively young! But what really touched me about the Matsuba Park rajio taisō session was what a friendly, supportive group it was, and what a wonderful social ritual it seemed to provide for many people in the area. In this respect, it is very like my experience of morris dancing, which is so often as much about the fellowship and camaraderie as it is about the performances themselves. We need these excuses to come together.

At the the end of the broadcast, mugs of steaming hot green tea were produced (seemingly out of nowhere!) and a tray of delicious bean paste yokan sweets were passed around. Again, this receives a hearty thumbs up from me! Post-workout snacks can never be a bad thing, plus I don't know about the other participants but I didn't have time to eat breakfast!

[Post-calisthenics social]

 [Yokan sweets]

[Rajio taisō dogs]

I had a thoroughly nice morning at the rajio taisō session and by the time I left, a little after 7am, I felt I had made some new Japanese friends. I had also gained an umbrella! As it turns out, every day since I arrived in Japan somebody has said to me, 'today it will rain' or 'tomorrow the snow will come' and every day the sky has been blue and the sun as shiny as a brand new penny. Today in Ueno was no exception in terms of weather-related pessimism and the Matsuba Park rajio taisō regulars were concerned that I had left home without an umbrella on a day when rain was forecast. Fortunately, Yusan, the park keeper—who apologised for his (still excellent!) 'junior high school English'—had a ready supply of umbrellas in one of the out-buildings, left behind by visitors to the park. He generously insisted I take one with me before leaving for Kamakura, the next stop on my itinerary. Of course, the sun shone all day! Still, one should never turn down a free umbrella...

[Yusan and his umbrella]

Many thanks to all the lovely people I met, who made me feel so welcome!